At the Rim | Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania

Before seeing this in person, I had only glimpsed the crater floor through hazy travelers’ photos.  Unimpressed, I dismissed it.  When I saw it with my own eyes–the water traversing through the mottled green landscape, the specks of pink wings on the lake, the clouds clinging inside the crater as if the crater had its own sky, the background looking like a Japanese painting–I knew this was something unique and special.

 

The colors in this landscape differed vastly from my favorite dazzling array of blues in the water.  The yellows and greens melted into one another and as this was the beginning of the long rain season, the colors popped with vibrancy and everywhere you can see life.  I know it: this place is one of the most beautiful places I will ever have the privilege to see.

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Lion Under a Baobab | Tarangire National Park

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Flamingoes on the Lake | Ngorongoro Crater

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The Sky | Ngorongoro Crater

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Sunrise on Lake Masek

Sometimes you go to a place, and it’s beautiful, and you think, this is familiar.  Somehow, somewhere, you have seen an incarnation of it.  Here, however, on Lake Masek, with the fog breaking over the water, the pink light of day pushing through the acacias, where only the day before you had seen the longs necks of giraffes bobbing down to the water–there is no place like it.  You can only get this here.  So sitting at breakfast with your traveling partner and your guide, you turn to look and you see this scene while everyone else is munching away on their food, panic sets into your stomach, and you’re compelled by something.  You long for your tripod, to set up a long exposure shot to capture the smoothness of the fog, but you resign yourself to your limitations.  And then you remember that it is your memory of this place that will live on, that in those brief few minutes you sat and stared out at the lake committing every line, every sound, every smell, every color to memory that it all becomes okay.

 

There may not be anywhere else in the world like it, but that day, that morning, Lake Masek gifted you with an image no matter how imperfect to your eyes that was perfect for the period of time you sat and soaked everything in.

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Serengeti Sunrise | Tanzania

I’ve been back for two weeks now, but have yet to go through all the photos.  Somehow I managed to take 40GB of photos, which is daunting to even think about editing.  Some I really love, and some are more like snapshots.  I don’t know exactly how I should organized these posts, but I think I will just post the ones I love as individual entries as I think about how to recap the trip.

 

Next week I will be heading down to support my coach, training partner, and very close friend at a huge BJJ tournament in Long Beach.  If anyone has recommendations for food and places to eat, I’d really appreciate them.  Mostly I’m looking for street food, quick and easy bargain bites, or anything with lots of character.

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At the Edge of the World | Ha’apai, Tonga

 

Five flights.  That’s what it took to get there.  We could have flown Air New Zealand straight through from San Francisco via Auckland to Tonga and connected to Ha’apai through Tongatapu, but that would have ended up costing $500 more per person.  Air Pacific routes through LAX and for that money, we decided to go with the cheaper airline.  Five flights.  SFO>LAX>Nadi, Fiji>Suva, Fiji,>Tongatapu (overnight)>Ha’apai.  On the morning we arrived in Fiji, we took our domestic transfer and then waited for our flight to Tonga.  For breakfast I ordered a plate of fruit, hoping for papaya, mangoes, pineapples–I don’t know, something tropical.  Instead I received some brown edged apple slices, squishy grapes, and orange segments.  After all that traveling, I had started to question why I had gone all this way.  Then I glanced outside as the morning light broke.  The poor plate of food no longer mattered.

I always tell people, to their raised eyebrows and contorted lips, how I love being on planes.  Turbulence doesn’t bother me.  Being still doesn’t bother me.  I am a restless person who’s addicted to constant motion and the need to take care of things as soon as they arise, but being on a plane soothes me.  Perhaps it’s knowing I’m in transit, so being still doesn’t bother me.  Although, I have to admit that all those flights–and the time in between waiting for flights–took a toll on me.  When we finally arrived in Tonga, my first concern involved finding a shower.  After that, we walked to the edge of the lagoon, staring at the murky water swishing over the rock and boulders.  Murky water.  Brown water.  And goosebumps covered my skin.  I started to worry I hadn’t brought enough warm things to get through my stay.

The next morning we headed over to Ha’apai, where the owner of Sandy Beach Resort, Jurgen, picked us up.  He wanted to stop by town briefly before heading over to Sandy Beach.  At the market, his eyes grew wild and huge at the sight of lettuce.  ”You can get sick of eating fish real fast,” he exclaims.  I look around the market and note to myself to eat all the greens and vegetables put in front of me at dinner.

Tonga’s main sources of income are from government assistance (namely Australia and China, who is trying to establish a presence strategically in the Pacific) and from Tongans abroad sending money home.  Often the family at home will use the money to build these suburban style homes, sprawling monstrosities that look like McMansions melting in the heat (I am not a fan of sprawling houses).  The jarring juxtaposition of shacks and these huge houses, sometimes adjacent to each other, made this trip slightly different for me.  I came looking for paradise, but I found something different.  The Tongans seemed to have developed a love/hate relationship with the Chinese.  They are grateful that the Chinese have taken an interest in their country, bringing in much needed supplies, opening local shops where people could pick up the essentials like aspirin, pouring money into improving their infrastructure like paving roads and building water catchements, but they are slightly resentful that the money being made from the local shops are not being made by locals.

 

Of all the Pacific Island Nations, Tonga had never been colonized.  They had always remained their own kingdom.  Even with the support from Australia and China, Tonga remains on its own.  In French Polynesia, where tourism is the primary source of GNP (although their economy is heavily subsidized by the French government), Tonga doesn’t have that.  Not many people go to Tonga.  In fact, not many people even know where Tonga is.  Tongatapu is the hub for tourists visiting and I found everyone I encountered there friendly, kind, and sweet.    Most travelers, when they leave the main island, go to Vava’u.  We, on the other hand, opted for the less travelled Ha’apai island group.

 

A while ago, I read Paul Theroux’s “The Happy Isle of Oceania.”  He did not paint the people of the Pacific Island Nations in a happy light.  I have to admit that I didn’t find myself in a very welcoming group.  It was obvious and clear that I am an outsider, not one of them.  One afternoon, while Steve  napped, I walked past a group of local men to the tip of Foa Island to drift snorkel the current.  As I walked past, I received some jeering remarks that culminated in “I love you, American Girl! Let me have a kiss!”  I kept my head low, stayed polite, and walked hurriedly back to Sandy Beach.  I doubt that I ever was in danger, but I didn’t feel comfortable.

 

I spoke to some of the other travelers, and a few of them had sticks and rocks thrown at them by the children.  I am not sure what to think about this.  I don’t write this to discourage anyone from going to Ha’apai as for the most part, the people I encountered were friendly, but this is not like any of the other places in the South Pacific I have been.  Being informed and knowing what to expect makes for a safer traveling experience.  Again, I want to reiterate–at no time did I feel unsafe.  Just as an American, don’t go expecting cheek to cheek smiles and beaming eyes ready to acquiesce and assist you with anything and everything.

Anyway, I didn’t come for a cultural immersion.  I hate to say that, but I came specifically for whales and after my experience, I contented myself to stay in the hammock and watch the water–something I never, ever do.  Steve recently described me as a hummingbird on speed, a surprisingly apt description.  I do not know how to sit still.  But here, sitting in the hammock and gazing out at that water–I did it happily.

Okay, so maybe I didn’t do too well with the staying put.

I don’t have any final thoughts on Tonga, even now, almost half a year later.  The experience for me was not about the bluest water or the most pristine coral or even the best food, but being somewhere that not a lot people have been to.  To get a glimpse of something magnificent like those few seconds looking into the eye of a whale or hearing their songs vibrating the floorboard of the boat, of how the rain felt so good on my salt baked skin, or when I snorkeled at Mushroom Rock during our lunch one afternoon, I turned the corner and saw the most amazing corals I have ever seen.  Yes, I panicked on my dive.  Yes, I felt uncomfortable at times.  Yes, I wish I were eating different food.  I wouldn’t trade any of it though for that feeling of knowing even the most remote spot on earth is reachable, but it is still far enough away that it takes time and careful planning to reach.  I also learned that I could let go.  In the evening, I would float in the water, face to the sky, just taking in the empty stretch of beach, feeling the evening wind come in, and let the water keep me buoyant.

 

Being still is something difficult for me.  And here I am writing about that as I am preparing to leave for Tanzania next week.

 

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Underwater

 

360 degrees arc to span a circle
360 degrees this is my view
i see all, but am safely submerged under water
i survey landscape and the ocean is mine

alone now with my gramophone

alone now with my periscope
i float at the center of a hidden world
i am the navel of the sea

no-one for miles around, and i’m good to travel
static crackle
hermetic capsule
not a soul to disturb my meditations now
i’ll reach the equator before i’m found
with the aid of my gramophone and periscope
in the belly of my boat

-Vuk, “Gramophone & Periscope”

 

Here I breathed easier as a fish than I do as a human.  I mean that in the best possible way.  I took up running a few months ago.  I hate running.  But breathing feels good.  Zoning out, letting go, and just breathing.  I hadn’t intend to wait this long between posts, but life happened.  I remember sitting at my computer while researching my next destination, thinking, is my life just going to be a series of moments waiting for the next thing?  It turned out I needn’t worry about it.  Things will happen; things will change.  And you will be blindsided.

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Looking into the Eye of a Whale | Ha’apai, Tonga

 

There are certain moments where things start to unfold and as you are living them, as you are experiencing them, as you go through them, and regardless of how prepared you are, of how you know, this is what I came for, this is what I travelled all this way for, I will never forget this, you just don’t quite realize the oh shit, this is really happening, this is really unfolding, this is really getting the blood pumping through my body.  Like the moment our guide, Brian, who has an Irishman’s sense of humor complete with red hair, stopped amidst the swells, turned his eyes toward me, and screamed with his entire body, “LOOK DOWN!”  And I did.  I looked down.  I stuck my head into the water and my heart went ballistic.

 

This was on the third day of whale watching.  We had spend four days in a row on a boat.  The first day was for diving and the rest were for whale watching.  They weren’t just a few hours each time, they were full days, going from about 8 to 4 or so.  Sometimes we’d come back a little earlier.  The first day, we heard a whale sing, who sang so loud as he swam underneath the dive boat, his song could be heard on the surface.  I could feel the boards on the boat vibrate beneath my feet.  Our stoic dive instructor, who had been in the water tying the line, came up with a gigantic smile spread across his face, clutching at his chest as if his heart was about to stop.  ”It was so loud, I had to cover my ears!” he said with the excitement of a young child who is able to satisfy his curiosity.

 

The first day of whale watching, after spending time with a mother and calf pair, we were able to get into the water and I caught a glimpse of the pair.  It took me a moment to see the escort, which is a male whale unrelated to the calf who hangs around the pair for a period of time before he moves on.  I don’t know what I was expecting, or maybe, I was just expecting this mystic experience, but instead I felt kind of numb.  The whales just swam by us, not paying any heed to us.  I caught a glimpse of them, that’s all.

 

On the second day of the whale watching, we never got into the water, except at the very quick lunch we had Mushroom Rock, where the corals look okay, until you round the corner and some of the most beautiful coral imaginable appear like giant plates with fish circling atop.  Most of the day had been uneventful until we came upon a mother and calf.  The calf was interested in us, doing barrel rolls, fin slaps, coming up to the boat, but mom had reservations.  After spending some time observing them and realizing that mom wasn’t comfortable, we eventually turned the boat around and headed back, calling it a day.

By the time the third day came around, we had spent countless hours on a boat.  Covered in saltwater.  Wearing a 3mm wetsuit.  At the end of each day, I looked forward to taking a shower, to get the salt off my skin, but the sun had somehow baked it on.  It was in my hair, the smell of the saltwater, and regardless of what I did, I could not get it off.  On the third day, it rained.  We went with a different tour company, Fins and Fluke, ran by Brian, with whom we had booked two days of whale watching.

 

The 3-5 foot swells caused hesitation, which worked its way as panic into my heart the first time I went in.  My snorkel, which has a shut off valve for free diving, kept malfunctioning, causing me to gasp for air, only to exasperate the feeling.  At times when I was in the water, I couldn’t see the boat, I couldn’t see anything as the swells pulled me down and pushed me back up.  Still, I calmed myself enough to get into the water several times.  We can only go into the water four at a time.  The last time, it was going to be Brian, the guide who is obviously an excellent swimmer, the underwater videographer, who is obviously an excellent swimmer, a US Coast Guard, who is obviously an excellent swimmer, and me, who is a decent swimmer.  The three of them managed to get into the water before I could get my fins on.  By the time I got into the water, they were already so far ahead of me, I had no chance of catching up with them until they stopped.  At some point, I poked my head above the water to check the location of the boat and the three other people in the water with me.  That was when I heard Brian yell those words that will always forever remain in my mind.

 

It’s one thing to observe wild animals and completely another to interact with them.  I don’t know exactly what I was expecting, from hearing the whale song so loud I could feel the boards shaking to looking this whale right in her eye.  It was a heat run we had been chasing, a female in the front with three males trailing her.  I looked into the water.  She came around.  I looked right at her.  She circled around me.  I saw her eye.  She looked at mine.  A minute.  It was at least a whole minute of looking into this whale’s eye before she lost interest in me and descended, vanishing into the murky depths below.  No, you can’t see the ocean bottom.  Yes, come to think of it, it was a little nerve wracking to be in the middle of the ocean with 3-5 swells, rain drops pelting at me, but you know, the fresh water felt so good on my salt baked skin.

This was an incredible experience for me.  From looking into the eye of the whale to diving.  I don’t think you can grow as a person without continually putting yourself into unknown and uncomfortable situations and see how you deal with it.  I’m proud of myself for pushing the boundaries of my comfort, so that the next time I am in the water, I will be that much more prepared.  Whenever I close my eyes to think of Tonga, all I can see is her eye looking right at me and all I can hear is the song of that whale who swam right under the dive boat.

 

Neil Armstrong said, “I believe every human has a finite number of heartbeats. I don’t intend to waste any of mine.”  And believe me, I don’t; I really, really don’t.

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PADI Open Water Certified: How I Scared Myself Shitless

 

Our trip to Tonga has been booked for September.  We’ll be catching five flights to get to one island, but it will definitely be worth it.  I’d love to be able to see some pristine coral reefs in some place not many people go to.  Corals are fragile and even touching them with your hands can kill them.  Or standing on the reef. Most of the corals I have seen have been damaged, whether by humans or by crown of thorn starfish or by bleaching from warming temperatures.  Tonga will give me a chance to see some pretty incredible reefs, so I figured, now is a good time to get certified to dive.

 

I thought it would be easy.  My approach was pretty cavalier–read the books, do the course, get certified, go diving.  It will be just like snorkeling, except with air, and underwater, and everything will be fine.  After all, I can repeatedly stand being thrown around, choked every which way, crushed, punched, kicked (I do krav and jiujitsu), so scuba will be easy.

 

During the confined water session, we all gear up, and step into the warm saline pool.  This feels right, I thought to myself.  I can now be a fish.  Just like I have been wanting to do for years.  This is easy, lots of people get certified.  I have to tell you, the moment I dunked my head underwater, my airways constricted, and all I could think about was, I cannot breathe! This is not right; this is not natural.  I stood up, not once, not twice, but several times.  It took me quite a few tries before I can coax myself back underwater, telling myself, that yes, I can, in fact, breathe.  We do the skills, partial mask flood, full mask flood, underwater breathing no mask for one minute, replace the mask, and clear.  By the end of the night, I’m feeling pretty good, floating around the bottom of the pool.  I’m confident will I do fine in Monterey during the open water session.  I got this.  No big deal.

 

If anything is going to remind you about your childhood traumas, it is being faced again by those traumas.  I don’t know what I was thinking or how I could have forgotten that I have nearly drowned three times in my life.  The first time, I was a little girl playing with a stick, a fishing line and a rock tied to the end.  My father was an avid fisherman, having been raised in a fishing village, so we would wake up before the crack of dawn and head out on several hour long road trips to the middle of nowhere just so he could set up the line and stare at the sky.  One day, he decided I should learn how to swim, so he did what was done to him: throw the child in the water, she’ll figure it out.  Have you been to Pacific Ocean?  It is frigid–cold, cold, cold!–so on top of gasping for air, I was freezing.  That did not make a happy experience for me at all.  The second time, I was rollerskating around the pool, fell in, and swallowed a lot of water.  Someone was able to pull me out by my long hair floating on the surface.  The third time it happened was probably the only time I was ever under actual threat of drowning.  We went white water rafting.  We hit a rock, I yelled high side, and a few of us went into the water.  Down, down, down the rapids I went.  A girl got caught in what was called the Devil’s Bowl.  I saw her head bob up and back down she would go.  Over and over.  Meanwhile, I could feel my hands scraping along the bottom of the river, and I knew I was underwater.  I had come to terms with the fact that this was where I was going to die.  Well, I didn’t die.  I don’t know how long I drifted, who pulled me out, but I just remember being on a raft, shaking, and drinking a ton of water.  I was so thirsty.

 

Back to Monterey.  We were supposed to be an even group.  One person didn’t show up.  I didn’t know how it was going to work.  We are suppose to buddy up.  I’m not very good with strangers, and I can be awfully uncomfortable and shy to the point where I may come off a little stuck up.  It’s not that I am, it’s just that I’m used to be being alone and am socially awkward–that’s all.  We are given these 7mm wetsuits with a jacket.  Boots, hoods, gloves.  Crystal, the woman helping us out, gives me this suit that looks like it would fit a 10 year girl, albeit a very tall 10 year old girl.  Looking at her through one open eye and an arched brow, I say, “you have got to be kidding me.”  She assures me, no, that in fact, you want to get into the tightest fitting possible wetsuit to stay warm.  It takes me thirty minutes to pull this thick, neoprene skin over me.  I broke a sweat.  I strained my forearms.  I can grip a gi and toss people around, but pulling this over me?  Oh. My. God.  It was awful.

 

While I was struggling to get into my second skin, I find out, everyone has paired up, leaving me the odd one out.  No big deal, I thought.  I can totally do this.  I am independent, strong, smart, and capable.  After assembling our gear, I put my hood on.  John, the Dive Instructor, helps me. Thinking back on it, people did try to help me, but I was just too oblivious to recognize this.  I do everything myself, including slinking into 90-100 pounds of gear by myself, securing it by myself, doing the BWARF safety check by myself.  We get into the water.  Everyone else is going down in pairs, and I’m going alone.  I get down to the bottom no problem.  Then I look around me, and the water is so stirred up by sand, I can only focus on how constricting it is.  I tell myself, I can breathe, that’s the important thing.  First dive is over, everything is okay.

 

I had a problem with my mask.  The straps kept loosening and water kept leaking in.  I’m nervous, on edge, and I think, what a shitty thing to have happened.  Add to this, my growing dread of the mask removal and replacement drill.  I was fine doing this in a pool.  I could see in the pool.  But this water?  This murky water?  I tighten the strap.  Meanwhile, the sun is out, and it’s in the 70s.  In Monterey.  I’m sweating in my wetsuit, really need to use the bathroom, and I cam barely pull it off and on, but I manage (roll it down, roll it back up).  I think back to the documentaries where I see the Galapagos penguins standing in the sun, eyes closed, obviously uncomfortable, and then they torpedo into the water and are at ease.  I am those penguins.  I am a Galapagos penguin and I desperately need cold water.  After the break and getting our tanks refilled with air, we reassemble our units, and head back to the water.  My hood is loose, my mask is too tight, everyone else is already in the water, masks on, fins on.  I am alone on the beach, fighting with my strap, fighting with my hood, trying to tuck my hair under my head while the sun relentless beats down on me.  Other divers form other groups are in the water and they are effortlessly moving around, and it seems like everyone is looking at me, waiting for me.  FInally I managed to get in.  We do our tired diver towing, and I ask the person closest to me to do my skill.  Once we get to the buoy, we descend.  I am trying very hard to do it slowly, and as I go down, to equalize as much as possible.  Well, turns out my mask just doesn’t fit right at all.  It’s slipping.  I don’t want to remove it.  Being able to see is the only thing preventing me from not completely panicking underwater.  I get to the bottom, find the line, hold on desperately to the rope, but I keep floating, I cannot control my buoyancy, the water is moving, I feel that my air is too restricted, too little.  Rule number one: never stop breathing.  I breathe and breathe, controlled breaths, counting to two, and eventually I am able to calm myself down.  By this point, I am rethinking the whole thing.  What is wrong with just snorkeling, I think.  It’s fun, you breathe surface air, you can free dive, it’s practically the same right?  Maybe diving is just not for me.

 

We surface and head back after performing our skills.  I tell John my reservations.  I tell him, I don’t think diving is for me.  We get onto the beach.  My eyes are flooded with tears as the possibility that I might just have to give up.  I tell John I don’t want to do the mask removal.  The tears are coming and I’m getting even more frustrated that I am so frustrated.  He reminds me that I’ve already completed all the skills in the pool and any hesitation is psychological–I am making it much worse in my head.  Yes, I realize this, I know that it is my mind playing tricks on me, and my mind is telling me, no, don’t do this, turn around, and go home.  I decide to stick it out just a little longer, develop a plan of attack for the mask.  It’s just water.  It’s just a a mask.  As long as I can breathe, I am ok.  We get into the water again, after the break.  We descend.  I can’t see anything in front of me.  My heart is pounding in my chest. The sound of the bubbles from my regulator and the beating of my heart are all I can hear.  John gets to me, does the signal for the mask removal.  I pinch my nose, thinking through the task, doing it slow.  I get the mask back on, my heart is beating faster, the water seems heavier, the particles in the water are blooming, everything is getting murkier.  I am frightened.  Terrified.  I am telling myself to stay calm, do not panic, clear the mask, breathe, breathe, breathe.  The mask is not on right.  It floods again.  I clear it.  I am panicking.  My breathing is short and quick, staccato beats.  John tries to fix my mask as it’s twisted and the seal is bent all over my face.  It floods.  I can’t see.  I clear it, hard, fast, then I try to breathe quickly, clearing it again.  I don’t know what happened.  Maybe I cleared too hard, causing the mask to come off my face.  I inhale water.  I cling onto John, looking him in the eye, trying to work though my panic.  I must have tried breathing through my nose.  For a few seconds, I was able to talk myself down, to remain calm, but then I started more swallowing water.  Air.  So as long as I can breathe, I am ok.  Except I can’t breathe.  I’m swallowing water.  More and more water.  I make a kick, thinking, fuck this, I need air.  John pulls me back down and I know that he is telling me to go slow.  Do not make a panic ascent.  I go as slow as I can, which probably was still not slow enough.  I go past my bubbles.

 

At the surface, I cough up water.  I cough up so much water.  I leave my mask on, though.  John comes up, takes my mask off of me, and puts into the float.  He tells me to stay on the surface.  I nod my head.  I say, “There is no way I am going back down there.”  He tells me, ok.  He says, “You did well, you did the skill, you don’t have to do it again.”  It takes another ten to fifteen minutes for everyone else to surface.  We head back to shore.  He tells me that I am very close to certification, and that if I want, we can stay and practice the skill in the shallows.  I shake my head no.  It’s 5pm, and I just want to go back to my motel room, and veg in front of a tv.  Please, I never want to be in the water again.

 

I get back to the room and replay things in my head.  What went wrong.  Why was I so anxious.  I come up with a number of things.  I spend the evening watching Shark Week on the Discovery Channel. Steve points out that perhaps it’s not the best thing to watch when my nerves are so frazzled.  I tell him that I hate the water.  He pulls up photos of our trips.  French Polynesia.  Bali.  THe BIg Island.  Hawaii. Belize.  I’m in the water, I’m smiling, I’m free diving, I’m snorkeling, I’m happy.  Big, bright beaming smiles.  ”You love the water,” he says.  I do love the water.  Maybe it gets easier.  Maybe it will be better in the South Pacific, where the visibility is easily 40 meters/ 131 feet.

 

For our last and final dive, I was a wreck.  I stayed calm, though, and worked through it.  I turned to a pair, and say, you know, I’m terrible with a compass, could I buddy up with you.  It’s quickly determined one would be the leader.  We get back into the water, and descend on our own, and I feel safe with the group.  We are all keeping our eyes on each other.  I don’t feel so alone.  We do the navigation, get back to the rope.  Then a quick little tour.  I’m having buoyancy problems.  I can’t remain neutrally buoyant.  I’m falling on the starfish, kicking the anemones, stirring up the sand and I might have whacked another diver with my fin.  Seeing as how I’m such a disaster near the bottom, I decide to inflate my BCD just a little to see if I could hover on top of the other divers.  I start to float.  This is bad, I’m thinking.  I’m going too fast.  I dump the air.  Still going up.  I can’t stop it.  I pop up to the surface and hang out for a few minutes until the other divers come up, too.  When we are all at the surface, we realize we are missing a person.  John is starting to fret, we’re all freaked out.  The diver pop us a great distance from us, and eventually we’re all together.  John repeats again, “If you do not see your buddy, for the purpose of this dive, search only for a few seconds, then surface.  Do not proceed.”  We get together, and I tell our leader about my buoyancy issue and she gives me some advice.  John asks if we ok to make an underwater swim to shore.  He checks all of our air.  We nod our heads.

 

We descend again, and taking the advice I’ve just been given, I find myself neutrally buoyant.  I’m comfortable, I’m relaxed.  I see fish.  I see kelp.  I see other divers.  I see.  I breathe.  I relax.  I make little movements with my fin, use my compass, and before I realize it, we’re at the shore.  As we surface, I am smiling.  We take off our fins and masks and walk back to take apart our gear.  We’re all getting certified.

 

This has been a really long post, but it’s reminder to me that even in the grips of anxiety and panic, not to give up.  To try and be work though the problems.  Really, was it that bad?  Most of it was just my mind playing tricks on me.  The worst thing that happened to me was that I swallowed some water.  A lot worse could have happened.  A couple of things I will remember form my certification process I will not ever forget:

 

1.  Never stop breathing. As long as you can breathe, you’re okay.  If you can’t see, if you don’t have your mask, if you don’t know where you are, DO NOT PANIC.  Breathe.  Then decide the best course of action.

2.  Never underestimate the importance of a buddy system.  It was completely idiotic and stupid of me to think I’ll be okay to do this without a buddy.  Considering my anxiety level when I began, my fear of drowning, not being able to see, getting into the heavy gear myself, I should have been more on top of placed into a buddy group. People tried to offer, but they were likely as shy as I was or maybe they thought I really wanted to be by myself.  People are not mind readers.  Once I got myself buddied up, I could relax a little. They got my back and I got theirs.  Everything is fine.

 

I’m happy I didn’t give up.  I’m still nervous about diving, but this is a much healthier approach than my previous cavalier attitude.  Buoyancy control is hard and I don’t want to crash into coral.  I don’t want to collide into aquatic life.  I will have to be more aggressive with getting a competent buddy.  Tonga is coming up soon, and I’m looking forward to being that crystal clear water, hopefully relaxed and hovering perfectly fine, and even better if I could have the Dive Master by my side, until I get more competent under water.  I hope that I will be able to log many, many dives in my future.

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